Rachel Louise Penn does some amazing stuff with knitwear. The University of Arts London graduate has recently moved to Adelaide, and the Collective’s Jenna Munday asked her about her label and influences…

Describe your label…

I would say that my work is an eclectic, contemporary mix of bespoke knitted and mixed-media textiles, inspired by nature, culture and tradition, but developed and designed in a cutting-edge way.

What first drew you to your interest in knit?

My first interest in knit came about, like so many others, with my nana. Whenever I used to visit her when I was young she always got me whittling away my spare time making something, whether it was a making sewing case or knitting a scarf, she always got me doing something creative. I suppose it is because of this that I have become a very sentimental designer, using a nostalgic craft.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I wouldn’t say that I am drawn to one particular thing when it comes to creating collections, as depending on what I do and where I go at the time my interests change from one project to the next. However, I do tend to focus on very structural and decorative elements, combining a lot of mixed media into my designs. This particular collection was inspired by nature’s defences and warning colours.

How long does it generally take to create a piece?

Usually it takes from 4-7 days per piece. I must say the sense of achievement when you have finished a piece is overwhelming, knowing that you have made everything with your own two hands using traditional techniques, but in a contemporary way.

Are you currently working on a new collection? Tell us about it…

Well at the moment I am actually working towards a showcase of my work for the opening night of the Adelaide Fringe at Paper String Plastic Gallery on February 24. It will be a live catwalk show of my current collection with some new pieces added in, which I’m working on at the moment.

What are your plans for the future?

My plans for the near future, or at least whilst I am here, are to travel. I wish to immerse myself and get involved with as much as I can. I plan to keep on designing and establishing myself as a designer wherever I go, and hope this will lead me to something amazing. I am also looking at doing some further studying to develop my skills, maybe in Melbourne or back in London – I am undecided as of yet. I am just going to try and take every day as it comes and make the most of it.

Find out more about Rachel Louise Penn on her website.

Interview by Jenna Munday

Images © Rachel Louise Penn

The Collective’s Chanelle Leslie caught up with Claire Alice Young about internet fame, photography, and perfection.

“I’m perfect,” says the fresh-faced 18-year-old, with a giggle that reveals her innocuous insincerity. It’s South Australian photographer Claire Alice Young, of course, responding to my vain quest for dirty laundry to air.

It’s certainly true that perfectionism colours every aspect of Claire’s endeavours. Nobody can accuse this independent spirit of living a half-hearted life.

Having lived alone since completing Year 12 last year, she’s worked to support herself and her photography, balancing regular shoots with office work, photography assistance, and a long-term boyfriend. In the past year, she’s travelled to Sydney, Melbourne, and Tasmania for shoots, been sent to shoot Falls Festival for a Sydney-based magazine, and photographed a lookbook for local designer Casper&Pearl.

Even so, she doesn’t hesitate to dish out her own criticism.

“I often get angry at myself and my work,” she says, naming creative blocks as her biggest challenge. “There’ll be long periods where I don’t photograph anything and I get disappointed in myself.”

“I sit around and procrastinate too much.”

You get the feeling Claire is simultaneously blessed and cursed with youthful optimism. She knows what she wants, but the steps to getting there are hazy. I ask her who she is, and it takes her minutes to respond.

“I’m Claire Young,” she starts, faltering. I offer her time to think about it, and she gladly accepts.

“I’m Claire Young, fashion photographer,” begins her second attempt. “Shit. Don’t make me do this. Let me think about it.”

A few long minutes, and an inconclusive answer: “I’m Claire Young, a fashion photographer who’s extremely awkward and isn’t so great at communicating, but that’s probably why I like to take photos.”

If Claire’s work has a trademark, it’s the whimsical quality that’s reminiscent of the imagery of her Australian contemporaries Nirrimi Hakanson and Lucia Pang, both of whom rose to fame after going viral on social media. Comparisons are inevitable, and she’s upfront about her wrestles with being juxtaposed with such high achievers. “I don’t think [I’m] trying to be someone else, but I feel very disheartened and discouraged sometimes when I look at someone’s work and [think], they’re amazing, and I’m not so confident in myself.”

“I’m not jealous or anything, and I think it’s great for them,” she says of her internet-famous peers. “I’m not desperate to be [internet-famous].”

“I wouldn’t want to have thousands of people wanting me to write blog posts… I think it might put a stress on my own photography, to create something that everybody wants to see instead of what I want to do.

“It’s nice having fans, but I don’t get carried away with it.”

Although she often uses the words disappointed, disheartened and discouraged to describe the way she feels about her work, Claire is careful not to allow any lack of confidence taint her dogged sense of ambition. For her, there’s no question that the future revolves around photography.

“I really hope I’m getting more jobs in photography, and hopefully shooting for a magazine,” Claire says about her five-year plan. “I hope that I can move my photography forward into something that’s more natural, and using girls that are beautiful in their own way.”

At the end of the day, her mantra is clear: “I want to stay true to myself, and my own ideas, and the way that I like to photograph.”

You can find out more about Claire Alice Young on her website.

Images © Claire Alice Young

(Chanelle Leslie)

Since we caught up with Leah at the end of RAFW last year, she has set her sights internationally with a move to London. Here are some of her images from and thoughts about the European runways.

What brought you to shooting the international Fall 2011 fashion weeks?

I was hired by an editor of a French magazine to shoot Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture and Ready-To-Wear collections. I had already planned to be in London for a few months at the beginning of 2011 so I would be available for the Fall 2011 season.

You’ve recently moved from Adelaide to London for work. What made you choose London and do you plan on coming back to Adelaide?

I lived in London for a few years and decided to go back there to pursue opportunities. London is one of my favourite cities in the world and it is easy to travel through Europe and abroad. An amazing city. I will be living in Sydney when I return to Australia after fashion week, and am planning to travel back and forth for the international fashion weeks.

What has been your highlight so far?

London Fashion Week was really fun. I loved Milan and Paris Fashion Week RTW. The collections were stunning and the cities are amazing. It was my first time to Milan and Paris Fashion Week and a lot of my friends in the industry were there.

After experiencing RAFW and Adelaide Fashion Festival, what are some of the differences that you’ve noticed in Europe?

The fashion, people and whole experience is spectacular. Being in the top fashion capital cities in the world really opens your eyes to the difference between Australian and European fashion/designers. There is a huge difference. I have some favourite Australian designers, but they are not very well known in Europe. The fashion is far more advanced and high-paced in Europe. The culture and people are different at RAFW. I still love RAFW and I find the people are more glamorous in Sydney than the people I have seen in Europe!

Who is your favourite designer to shoot on the runway?

Roberto Cavalli, Valentino and Vivienne Westwood. Always been a huge fan of these designers and their collections. It is simply beautiful to capture their collections on the runway.

You recently captured a candid moment with editor in chief of Vogue USA, Anna Wintour. What was that like?

I was very surprised nobody was taking any photos of her sitting on the front row at Roberto Cavalli’s show in Milan. I pointed her out to an Italian photographer next to me and he said they’re not really interested in her!! I walked over to her and asked if I could take her photo and she graciously smiled for me. She is amazing and an icon in the fashion industry. It was great seeing her at the shows in Milan and Paris.

How do you see the styles changing from London, Paris and Milan?

The styles were more similar in Paris and Milan. The trends are very similar in Europe each season.

Any trend predictions coming out of the shows?

Fur, leather, black, dark colours.

You can find out more about Leah on her website.

All images © Leah McQueen